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A narrow belt is worn around the hips. Detail of the Altarpiece of St. Vincent, Catalonia, late 14th century. Huntsman wears side-lacing boots, late 14th century. Man walking in a brisk wind wears a chaperon that has been caught by a gust. He wears a belt pouch and carries a walking stick, late 14th century. From the Tacuinum Sanitatis.
Kirtles were part of fashionable attire into the middle of the 16th century, and remained part of country or middle-class clothing into the 17th century. [ citation needed ] Kirtles began as loose garments without a waist seam, changing to tightly fitted supportive garments in the 14th century .
Women began wearing surcoats during the 13th century, both with and without sleeves. [3] A particular style, known as the sideless surcoat, developed as a fashion in the 14th century. This was a sleeveless, floor-length garment featuring exaggerated armholes, which at their most extreme were open from shoulder to hip, revealing the gown underneath.
Over it was worn the cyclas or sleeveless surcoat also worn by men. More wealthy women wore more embroidery and their mantle, held in place by a cord across the chest, might be lined with luxurious fur. Women, like men, wore hose and leather shoes which, regardless of gender, could be elaborately embroidered for special occasions. [4]
The 14th century lasted from 1 January 1301 (represented by the Roman numerals MCCCI) to 31 December 1400 (MCD). It is estimated that the century witnessed the death of more than 45 million lives from political and natural disasters in both Europe and the Mongol Empire. [1] [2] West Africa experienced economic growth and prosperity.
The sideless surcoat of the 14th century became fossilized as a ceremonial costume for royalty, usually with an ermine front panel (called a plackard or placket) and a mantle draped from the shoulders; it can be seen in variety of royal portraits and as "shorthand" to identify queens in illuminated manuscripts of the period.
Toward the end of the century and into the following one, updates to armour took place at an accelerated rate. The use of multiple materials is the key stylistic element of the period. For instance, a set of transitional style arm defenses could employ steel pauldrons , leather rerebraces , steel elbow cops and leather vambraces .
Brighter hoses seem to be more prominent by the late 14th century, and seem to more resemble trousers that was held up with rope-belts at the waist; hose were sometimes tied directly to the doublet. [2] 15th century hose were often made particolored or mi-parti, having each leg having a different colour, or even one leg made of two colors ...