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The carcass is the main framework, or body, of the object. It is what remains after you strip all coverings, doors, front-face panels, frames for these panels, and (non-structural) shelves. It is the framework of a structure, and is generally not seen.
The long rail along the back of the carcass then gives you support for the long dimension of the shelf, which at 1600mm will be quite valuable. If you're using a composite material like particle board or mdf for the shelf, or if the shelf is more than 20cm or so wide, you should also screw a rail to the front of the shelf, to stiffen it.
My carcass is 710mm tall with 18mm base and spacer, so the height for drawer runners is 710 - (2 x 18) = 674mm. I have bought some of the Hafele metal drawer system drawers. I have 2 x 150mm tall drawers and 2 x 86mm drawers, they didn't come with any instructions. I also bought some soft close adapters to make these slides close softly, where ...
In all cases, you should usually also glue the joints for improved strength; if using a nailgun the nails only serve to hold the carcass (cabinet box) together while the glue dries. You can hide your fasteners by strategically positioning them.
My upcoming cabinet carcass calls for 1" crown staples to butt join 1/2" plywood pieces. It's a fast build for garage cabinets. What's a suitable alternative if I don't have a compressor/...
How do I calculate the weight threshold for cabinet carcasses based on the dimensions, material (e.g., plywood, mdf), and material thickness?
Carcass is 3/4" and I would like to get roughly half of it covered (9 or 10mm). I am reading about half-overlay hinges but it seems that they have a specific application (namely side-to-side cabinets with single panel).
The first part is to build the carcass which supposed to look like this: I am using construction grade 5x10cm lumber (pine). I've spent some time choosing the most straight pieces from the lumber yard but they are still not perfect. At this point, I have finished building the carcass for the bench and, as I feared, it is not perfectly flat and ...
Have your cabinet extend out approx 1" from the face of the wall. How far it extends should be the thickness of your trim. With your cabinet, align the front of all the cabinets, drawers, doors to be flush and even with each other. Use edge trim like the way I did around the outline of the cabinets doors and drawer.
For good general purpose use, as a beginner, get a carcass saw (~13 ppi, crosscut filed, with a little depth to it - 2 inches or better.) It will serve you well for many purposes, and will be easier to start in the cut than a rip-filed saw. When it fails you in some way, then you can start building your inevitable collection :)