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It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using silk noil, short-staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament yarn silk fibres). The short silk fibres are degummed [1] and, traditionally, the yarns are hand-joined to form a continuous length before weaving, [2] a technique also used for cheaper bast fibres.
Silk noil is also called "raw silk", although this is a misnomer. Silk noil may also be made from the short fibres taken from silkworm cocoons – either fibres that are naturally shorter or fibres broken by emerging silk moths. Rather than the continuous filament length of silk, shorter fibers are silk noil, which has a slightly rough texture.
Unspun short-fiber silk noil; see sericulture Tsumugi cloth, showing slubs. Silk is a filament fiber, and the only natural fiber type to come in filament length naturally (strands can be over 1.5 km long). However, some silk fibers are shorter in length, and must therefore be processed as shorter-staple fibers, not as filament fibers, to make ...
The colour and quality of the silk depends on the climate and soil. [20] Antheraea yamamai (Guénerin-Méneville, 1861) – the tensan (天蚕) silk moth. The tensan silk moth has been cultivated in Japan for more than 1,000 years. It produces a naturally white silk but does not dye well, though it is very strong and elastic.
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Silk was used for high-class fabrics, [9] with silk noil from broken, lumpy or discarded silk cocoons used to weave lower-class materials such as tsumugi, a type of soft, uneven slub-woven silk with little of its typical shine. In the 1400s, cotton was introduced from Korea.