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Skirts, dresses and kilts can include pleats of various sorts to add fullness from the waist or hips, or at the hem, to allow freedom of movement or achieve design effects. One or more kick pleats may be set near the hem of a straight skirt to allow the wearer to walk comfortably while preserving the narrow style line.
The earliest forms of the kilt, called a plaid or "great kilt" (feileadh mòr), were worn over the existing garments of the time, such as trews or breeches with hose or leg wraps. From the late 1600s onward, historical paintings start to show some kilts worn with high socks, with no covering on the visible part of the upper legs.
The kilt first appeared as the great kilt, the breacan or belted plaid, during the 16th century.The filleadh mòr or great kilt was a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the shoulder, or brought up over the head.
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In the modern era, Scottish Highland dress can be worn casually, or worn as formal wear to white tie and black tie occasions, especially at ceilidhs and weddings. Just as the black tie dress code has increased in use in England for formal events which historically may have called for white tie, so too is the black tie version of Highland dress increasingly common.
A Souliote warrior wearing fustanella, by Louis Dupré.. Fustanella (for spelling in various languages, see chart below) is a traditional pleated skirt-like garment that is also referred to as a kilt worn by men in the Balkans.
The word plaide in Gaelic roughly means blanket, and that was the original term for the garment.The belted plaid has been and is often referred to by a variety of different terms, including fèileadh-mòr, breacan an fhèilidh; and great kilt; [a] however, the garment was not known by the name great kilt during the years when it was in common use.
An old-time practice, to the 18th century, was to add an accent on plaids or sometimes kilts in the form of a selvedge in herringbone weave at the edge, 1–3 inches (2.5–7.6 cm) wide, but still fitting into the colour pattern of the sett; [57] [58] a few modern weavers will still produce some tartan in this style.