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Topographic Rossby waves are geophysical waves that form due to bottom irregularities. For ocean dynamics, the bottom irregularities are on the ocean floor such as the mid-ocean ridge. For atmospheric dynamics, the other primary branch of geophysical fluid dynamics, the bottom irregularities are found on land, for example in the form of mountains.
The following outline is provided as an overview of and introduction to Oceanography.. Thermohaline circulation. Oceanography (from Ancient Greek ὠκεανός (ōkeanós) 'ocean' and γραφή (graphḗ) 'writing'), also known as oceanology, sea science, ocean science, and marine science, is the scientific study of the ocean, including its physics, chemistry, biology, and geology.
A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.
Waves and shallow water. When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming ...
The Miles-Phillips mechanism is a physical interpretation of these wind-generated surface waves. Both mechanisms are applied to gravity-capillary waves and have in common that waves are generated by a resonance phenomenon. The Miles mechanism is based on the hypothesis that waves arise as an instability of the sea-atmosphere system. [1]
Surf zone. The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.
An "undertow" is a steady, offshore-directed compensation flow, which occurs below waves near the shore. Physically, nearshore, the wave-induced mass flux between wave crest and trough is onshore directed. This mass transport is localized in the upper part of the water column, i.e. above the wave troughs. To compensate for the amount of water ...
When the arch collapses as the coastline recedes further a stack is left behind on the wave-cut platform. The best-known example in Germany is the Lange Anna on Heligoland, while, in England, a prominent example are Old Harry Rocks in Dorset. Ocean waves crashing against sea cliffs at Cape Pillar, Tasmania in Australia.