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Women also wore the chaperon, a draped hat based on the hood and liripipe, and a variety of related draped and wrapped turbans. The most extravagant headdress of Burgundian fashion was the hennin, a cone or truncated-cone shaped cap with a wire frame covered in fabric and topped by a floating veil. Later hennins featured a turned-back brim, or ...
A conical hennin with black velvet lappets (brim) and a sheer veil, 1485–90. The hennin (French: hennin / ˈ h ɛ n ɪ n /; [1] possibly from Flemish Dutch: henninck meaning cock or rooster) [N 1] was a headdress in the shape of a cone, steeple, or truncated cone worn in the Late Middle Ages by European women of the nobility. [2]
Evening wear for women, sometimes also known as court dress based on its creation at royal courts, has its origins in the 15th century with the rise of the Burgundian court and its fashionable and fashion-conscious ruler Philip the Good.
Images from a 14th-century manuscript of Tacuinum Sanitatis, a treatise on healthful living, show the clothing of working people: men wear short or knee-length tunics and thick shoes, and women wear knotted kerchiefs and gowns with aprons. For hot summer work, men wear shirts and braies and women wear chemises.
The women's clothing reflects fashions popular amongst Burgundian nobles in the early 15th century. Their sleeves and robes are exceptionally long, and most of the women have tightly pinned or shaven hairlines, reflecting the 15th-century fashions evident from portraits by Rogier van der Weyden and Petrus Christus.
Her clothing is an adaptation of traditional Burgundian fashion, popular between 1400 and 1500. By the time Matsys completed this work, in 1513, this style of dress was already out of fashion. Her dress, with tightly laced corseted front, pushes her wrinkled breasts up beyond propriety standards for the period.