Ads
related to: what is the difference between lacquer and varnish finish on furniture wood- Wood Stain Color Guide
Select the Ideal Stain Color
For Your Wood Stain Project
- Find A Retailer Near You
Find the Minwax® Products You Need
At Your Local Retailer
- 2025 Color Of The Year
Make Something Beautiful
With Minwax® Violet
- Wood Finish Color Series
240+ Oil-Rich Stain Colors
Superior Control in Just One Coat
- Where To Buy Minwax
Find A Local Retailer Near You
Superior Products Since 1904
- Products - Wood Finishes
Durability & Long Lasting Beauty
View Clear Protective Finishes
- Wood Stain Color Guide
Search results
Results From The WOW.Com Content Network
Excellent general furniture finish, harder than standard lacquer. Conversion varnish or Acid-Cat Lacquer: Transparent, all sheens from 5% to Gloss Excellent protection against many substances Meets UK and European standards for "severe use". Uses toxic solvents, including toluene. Moderate. Requires spray equipment. Used in professional shops only.
Lacquer is typically sprayed on, within a spray booth that evacuates overspray and minimizes the risk of combustion. The rule of thumb is that a clear wood finish formulated to be sprayed is a lacquer, but if it is formulated to be brushed on then it is a varnish. Thus, by far most pieces of wooden furniture are lacquered. [citation needed]
Lacquer dish with Chinese character for longevity, mid 16th century Maki-e sake bottle with Tokugawa clan's mon, Japan, Edo period Lacquer plate, Nam Định province, Vietnam, Nguyễn dynasty. Lacquer is a type of hard and usually shiny coating or finish applied to materials such as wood or
Wooden furniture is taken apart when renewing varnish to improve the finish. A synthetic varnish, cellulose nitrate, was developed in the 1850s but was not available in a formulation suitable for commercial furniture until the late 1920s. Unfortunately, cellulose nitrate discolors and becomes brittle as it ages, so over time, the coating on ...
Japanning is most often a heavy black lacquer, almost like enamel paint. Black is common, and japanning is often synonymous with black japanning. The European technique uses varnishes that have a resin base, similar to shellac, applied in heat-dried layers which are then polished, to give a smooth glossy finish. It can also come in reds, greens ...
This method isn't recommended for antique furniture or wood surfaces with a more delicate finish. Step 1: Blot Any Excess Grease Or Oil First, blot excess grease with paper towels.
Compared to varnish it is simple to apply, usually a course of three coats by brush or cloth with any excess being wiped off shortly after application. The finish is left to dry for around 4–24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.
In addition to explaining, antique experts also offer their tips for dealing with each on your collectibles.