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  2. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.

  3. Iribarren number - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iribarren_number

    Breaking wave types: free surface and bubble plumes, as redrawn from photographs taken during a wave flume experiment. [ 1 ] In fluid dynamics , the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface ...

  4. Glossary of geography terms (A–M) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_geography_terms...

    1. Another name for a breaking wave. 2. A reef, shoal, bar, skerry, or area of shallow water against which waves routinely break. breaker zone See surf zone. break-in-bulk point A transfer point on a transport route where the mode of transport or type of carrier changes and where large-volume shipments are reduced in size.

  5. Surf zone - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_zone

    The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.

  6. Wave setup - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_setup

    In fluid dynamics, wave setup is the increase in mean water level due to the presence of breaking waves. Similarly, wave setdown is a wave-induced decrease of the mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is often denoted as wave setup, including both increase and decrease of mean ...

  7. California beachgoers enthralled by huge waves from storms ...

    www.aol.com/california-beachgoers-enthralled...

    Offshore storms shoved waves toward communities along the California coast, bringing flooding, road closures and fright to nearly 20 people who were briefly swept away on a Ventura beach on Thursday.

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    mail.aol.com

    Get AOL Mail for FREE! Manage your email like never before with travel, photo & document views. Personalize your inbox with themes & tabs. You've Got Mail!

  9. Wind-wave dissipation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind-wave_dissipation

    1) dissipation by "wave breaking" Wind-wave breaking at coastal area is a major source of the wind-wave dissipation. The wind waves lose their energy to the shore or sometimes back to the ocean when those break at the shore. (see more explains -> “Ocean surface wave breaking”) 2) dissipation by "wave–turbulence interaction"