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  2. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.

  3. List of unsolved problems in physics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_unsolved_problems...

    The following is a list of notable unsolved problems grouped into broad areas of physics. [1]Some of the major unsolved problems in physics are theoretical, meaning that existing theories seem incapable of explaining a certain observed phenomenon or experimental result.

  4. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  5. Iribarren number - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iribarren_number

    The parameter used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes. [4] [5] [6] Iribarren Number (ξ 0) as a function of wave height with constant beach steepness of 7.5 degrees. Iribarren's work was further developed by Jurjen Battjes in 1974, who named the parameter after ...

  6. Wave setup - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_setup

    In fluid dynamics, wave setup is the increase in mean water level due to the presence of breaking waves. Similarly, wave setdown is a wave-induced decrease of the mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is often denoted as wave setup, including both increase and decrease of mean ...

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  8. Radiation stress - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiation_stress

    The term : (¯) is the exchange of energy with the mean motion, due to wave–current interaction. The mean horizontal wave-energy transport (u + c g) E consists of two contributions: u E : the transport of wave energy by the mean flow, and; c g E : the mean energy transport by the waves themselves, with the group velocity c g as the wave ...

  9. Confluent (CFLT) Q4 2024 Earnings Call Transcript - AOL

    www.aol.com/confluent-cflt-q4-2024-earnings...

    Image source: The Motley Fool. Confluent (NASDAQ: CFLT) Q4 2024 Earnings Call Feb 11, 2025, 4:30 p.m. ET. Contents: Prepared Remarks. Questions and Answers. Call ...