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Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]
Bunka shishu (文化刺繍), in English often shortened to bunka, is a form of Japanese embroidery originating in the early 19th century [1] that became more widespread around the turn of the 20th century, [2] before then being introduced to the US after World War II. [1]
In free or surface embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery. Counted-thread embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over a predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric.
Drawn thread embroidery is a very early form of open work embroidery, and is the basis of lace.Drawn thread work from the 12th century was known as Opus Tiratum and Punto Tirato [1] from the Arab Tiraz workshops in Palermo.
Then the cloth is very tightly bound by wrapping thread up and down the pole. Next, the cloth is scrunched on the pole. The result is a pleated cloth with a design on a diagonal. Arashi is the Japanese word for storm; the patterns are always on a diagonal in arashi shibori, which suggest the driving rain of a heavy storm. [3]