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On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. [40] Messner had ascended all 14 "eight-thousanders" without supplemental oxygen by 1986. Running out of bottled oxygen was noted as a factor in the 1979 deaths of Ray Genet and Hannelore Schmatz on Mount Everest. [41]
Bottled oxygen can help mountaineers survive in the death zone. Mountaineers use supplemental oxygen in the death zone to reduce deleterious effects. An open-circuit oxygen apparatus was first tested on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions; the bottled oxygen taken in 1921 was not used (see George Finch and Noel Odell).
[citation needed] Breathing pure oxygen results in an elevated partial pressure of oxygen in the blood: a climber breathing pure oxygen at the summit of Mount Everest has a greater oxygen partial pressure than breathing air at sea level. This results in being able to exert greater physical effort at altitude.
Everest guide Adrian Ballinger is breaking with decades of tradition to create what he believes are better and more ethical ways to climb the world's tallest mountain.
Solo ascent of Mount Everest Lars Olof Göran Kropp (11 December 1966 – 30 September 2002) was a Swedish mountaineer, the first Scandinavian to climb Mount Everest without oxygen. He made a solo ascent of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support on 23 May 1996, after traveling there from Sweden by bicycle and foot.
The most notable event was the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen on 8 May 1978 together with Messner, which was previously thought to be impossible. [3] A year after his climb on Everest he published Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg".