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A surfboard is a narrow plank used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as papa heʻe nalu in the Hawaiian language, and were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa. They ...
Similar to wave surfing, heʻe hōlua involves the use of a narrow (12 ft or 3.7 m long, 6 in or 15 cm wide) wooden sled (papa hōlua). The sled is used standing up, lying down, or kneeling, to ride down man-made or naturally occurring courses ( kahua hōlua) of rock, often reaching speeds of 50 mph (80 km/h) or greater.
Ancient surfboard and hill sled dating to the 1600s discovered in Chiefess Kaneamuna's burial cave [18] Surfing was of profound religious importance to the ancient Hawaiians. The study of waves was called ka nalu and the memory of notable surfing feats was preserved in chants and songs (meles) passed down since the
He was a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming, winning medals in 1912, 1920 and 1924. [3] Kahanamoku joined fraternal organizations: he was a Scottish Rite Freemason in the Honolulu lodge, [4] and a Shriner. He worked as a law enforcement officer, an actor, a beach volleyball player, and a businessman. [5]
He was widely recognized as the best tuberider in the world, [8] and won the Pipeline Masters competition in 1972 and 1973, which was pseudo-named the Gerry Lopez Pipeline Masters until the death of Andy Irons in 2010. In 1999, Lopez was selected as "Waterman of the Year" by the Surf Industries Manufacturing Association (SIMA). [9]
The Olo surfboard was the largest out of the three types of traditional surfboards (Alaia and Paipo board) that were used by the Hawaiian people. The Olo is twice as long as the modern surfing longboard , measuring up to 5.18 metres (17.0 ft) long, 16.5 inches wide and nearly 6 inches thick.
Greg Noll (né Lawhead; February 11, 1937 – June 28, 2021) was an American pioneer of big wave surfing [1] and a prominent longboard shaper. [2] Nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of charging down the face of a wave, [3] he was on the U.S. lifeguard team that introduced Malibu boards to Australia around the time of the 1956 Summer Olympics in Melbourne. [1]
George Greenough was born in Santa Barbara, California, to Hamilton Perkins Greenough and Helen Marie Greenough, née Jensen.George’s father, Hamilton Perkins Greenough, spent part of his career as a shipwright, building wooden picket boats for the U.S. Navy during World War II.