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Each card is from a specific set. You can most easily identify your card by typing in the name of the card and the set number which is found in the lower left or lower right hand corner of a card. For example a base set charizard holo is 4/102 - if I didn't know this card was from base set I would simply search "Charizard 4/102"
Since you are here, it means you dont know much about the modern state of pokemon card collecting and values. Bottom line is its popular and products are scarce. Pokemon is trying to meet demand, but it isnt there yet. The Basics: Condition is most important and even if you think it looks mint, it likely isnt.
For Pokemon cards my columns are: Pokemon Card- like Snorlax ex Num- their Pokedex number Edition - 1st edition, shadowless, etc. Only applies to vintage cards Holographic - Holo, non Holo, reverse Holo, ex, etc Rarity - c UC r sar, etc Collection - card number in the set like 236/091 Expansion Set - set name like Pokemon 151
r/PokemonCardValue: Need help with pricing the value of a Pokemon card? Look no further than here! Quick and helpful.
Last Value Update - 2023-08-05. Hi, this is a beginner guide to help new collector understand and estimate the value of their Topps Pokemon Trading Card collection. Please note that: This assessment is unbiased as my only interest is to research and provide appropriate and exact knowledge on those sets
The most expensive Pokemon card in existence is a Japanese trainer card. There are many trainer, stadium, supporter, and energy cards worth pursuing. Many modern full art trainer and supporter cards end up being chase cards.
Then on the overview page, I have a column that adds how many I need from each set within each generation, and it gives me the total I need in my whole collection. I collect Pokemon cards purely to collect, so if I have a card I only put that I have 1. I am not using my spreadsheet for competition card tracking.
15 votes, 14 comments. 62K subscribers in the pokemoncards community. Welcome to r/pokemoncards! This is the community hub for Pokemon collectors on…
This tracker differentiates itself from others by adaptively showing completion status across all your sets, as well as adding an estimated value of your cards. This allows you to understand the general value of your set, whilst also showing what you're likely going to need to fork out to complete it!
Sometimes that curve can be extreme enough to crease the card, at which point the card is considered Damaged and regardless how minty it is otherwise, will always be a PSA 6 or worse. Thus making it not worth much to collectors, but a great binder card example.