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Tuckpointing was a way of achieving a similar effect using cheap, unrubbed bricks; these were laid in a mortar of a matching colour (initially red, but later, blue-black bricks and mortar were occasionally used) and a fine fillet of white material, usually pipe clay or putty, pushed into the joints before the mortar set. [4]
For a brick structure, the panel should not be any bigger than 3' x 3'. For other masonry units, the test panel can be a little larger. It is also important to pick the right season to do the repointing. Extremely high or low temperatures can cause rapid drying which can have negative effects on the mortar, masonry units, and the structure ...
For historic restoration purposes, and restoration work involving repointing or brick replacement, masons must discover the original brick and mortar and repair it with a similar material. The National Park Service provides guidance for proper masonry repointing through Preservation Brief 2. [25]
These lines are often rough and wavy, simulating the generally straight yet slightly irregular appearance of a grapevine. It is commonly used on matte-finish and antique-finish brickwork. Extruded (squeezed) joint This joint design requires no tooling and is formed naturally as excess mortar is squeezed out from between the bricks.
Tile setter: a brick trowel with an extra-wide blade to hold more mortar than a standard brick trowel. It is ideal for smoothing mortar on large bricks and blocks. Tuck pointer: used for neatly packing mortar between bricks and blocks when repointing and repairing crumbling mortar in masonry walls.
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