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Before commercial wall plugs, fixings were made to brick or masonry walls by first chiselling a groove into a soft mortar joint, hammering in a crude wooden plug and then attaching to the wooden plug. This was time consuming and required a large hole, thus more patching of the wall afterwards. It also limited the holes' location to the mortar ...
The bung-hole of the cask is on one of the circular faces, near the rim. When the cask is in service, it is laid on its side with the bunghole at the lowest point on the circumference. The keystone is a small thick wooden or plastic disk inserted into the bunghole which completely seals the cask until it is needed. [1]
A number of holes are then cut or drilled into the stone face along the scored line approximately 10 to 20 centimetres (3.9 to 7.9 in) apart. Plug and feather sets are inserted in the holes, with the "ears" of the feathers facing the direction of the desired split. The plugs are then struck with a hammer in sequence.
After the screw has been driven into the joint, the counterbore can be filled with an appropriately sized piece of dowel or a wooden plug cut from an offcut of the same timber using a plug cutter. There are also commercial systems available for screwed butt joints in which a plastic cap is provided with the screw to be fixed to the head of the ...
the mortise hole, and; the tenon tongue. The tenon, formed on the end of a member generally referred to as a rail, fits into a square or rectangular hole cut into the other, corresponding member. The tenon is cut to fit the mortise hole exactly. It usually has shoulders that seat when the joint fully enters the mortise hole.
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