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A surfboard is a narrow plank used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as papa heʻe nalu in the Hawaiian language, and were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa. They ...
Similar to wave surfing, heʻe hōlua involves the use of a narrow (12 ft or 3.7 m long, 6 in or 15 cm wide) wooden sled (papa hōlua). The sled is used standing up, lying down, or kneeling, to ride down man-made or naturally occurring courses ( kahua hōlua) of rock, often reaching speeds of 50 mph (80 km/h) or greater.
The study of waves was called ka nalu and the memory of notable surfing feats was preserved in chants and songs (meles) passed down since the 15th century. Many chiefs had a personal surf chant that celebrated their surfing prowess; this could be performed only by a professional chanter, one of which every chief maintained in his retinue. [19]
Signature. Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku (August 24, 1890 – January 22, 1968) was a Hawaiian competition swimmer who popularized the sport of surfing.A Native Hawaiian, he was born three years before the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
The koa's trunk was used by ancient Hawaiians to build waʻa (dugout outrigger canoes) [13] and papa heʻe nalu . Only paipo , kikoʻo, and alaia surfboards were made from koa, however; olo, the longest surfboards, were made from the lighter and more buoyant wiliwili (Erythrina sandwicensis). [14]
In 1973, the Papa Doo boys met and got to be friends with Dean Torrence (Jan & Dean). Torrence occasionally came to Papa's concerts and sat in with the band, adding some credibility to their act. By 1975, Stevie Surf, wanting to go in a more comedic direction, left the band to form a musical comedy act.
He was widely recognized as the best tuberider in the world, [8] and won the Pipeline Masters competition in 1972 and 1973, which was pseudo-named the Gerry Lopez Pipeline Masters until the death of Andy Irons in 2010. In 1999, Lopez was selected as "Waterman of the Year" by the Surf Industries Manufacturing Association (SIMA). [9]
Montgomery Ernest Thomas Kaluhiokalani (March 30, 1958 – November 2, 2013) was a surfer from Hawaii, known as Buttons. [2] He was an innovator of modern surfing maneuvers and was known for his switch foot surfing and for performing the first backside 360 in a major surf film.