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2 parts Water. 2 parts Dextrine or Cereal binder (I've been told black treacle or starch works) 1 part Linseed Oil. "Oil Sand prepared soley from silica sand, although having enough strength after baking, may well be found difficult to handle as cores in it's green state.
The amount of detail you can get on things is pretty impressive. I once cast a small face I made out of Sculpey, and the casting clearly showed my fingerprints on areas where I hadn't sanded them off the original. You can scale up sand casting to large objects, too. Engine parts. Pulleys. Google "Backyard Metal Casting". It's a resource. -J
Mix sand, soda, and lime into a workable clay and put in a mold. Add calcium chloride over outside edges to soak in. Soda and calcium dissolve each other and combine with lime. Rx produces silicate of lime and sodium chloride. Wash out salt in water. I am looking for information on how to self process grinding wheels.
I made a big cope and drag out of wood, and since I had trouble getting some green sand, I got some playground sand from same big box store, and some clay cat litter (the purest I could find was the one with baking soda!). I filtered the sand and the clay with a screen, mixed it all together, and added water until it was the right consistency.
Posted March 13, 2013. Casting sand and lost wax are two different things. You use casting sand for hard models to make imprints. Casting sand is ready for casting right away, no firing needed (or possible). For wax, you need a refractory to make the mould. This needs to be dried, fired etc.
Are you going to do investment casting or sand? What level of detail do you need? Everything has to be considered together. On the whole, I do not recommend DIY steel casting unless you have worked your way up to it. Casting takes a bit of effort to do right, and getting metal up to 3000F really just adds to the difficulty.
Sand casting in general is also only introduced in the 16th century, so not a realistic way they were produced either. Although that method can have been invented multiple times of course. Sometimes you just have to pick more modern options to make reproducing something a lot easier.
Posted November 13, 2010. I just want to re-iterate that this is for a solid fuel forge ONLY. That said, a little sand or straw in the kitty litter will make it stand up better. You don't have to crush it, just put it in a bucket of water until it turns to goo. Use just enough water to get a stiff mud consistency.
just something to show im not gone completely, today i had a play with cuttle bone casting silver. moment of truth, the previous failed attempt behind it. i made the next one smaller with a larger opening to the cavity because of the big opening theres lots of cleaning (and waste!) to do dropped ...
Step one: clean off the rust. Seriously, light rust isn't a big problem as it will just turn into scale you can brush off at welding temperature. If you are a true masochist, filing down to bright steel will allow you to use clean sand as flux as long as you apply it below scale-forming temperatures.