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The human body has optimal endurance below 150 m (490 ft) elevation. [6] The concentration of oxygen (O 2) in air is 20.9% so the partial pressure of O 2 (PO 2) at sea level is about 21.2 kPa (6.3 inHg; 3.07 psi). In healthy individuals, this saturates hemoglobin, the oxygen-binding red pigment in red blood cells. [7]
On July 18, 2023, Hugo Ayaviri climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks. [35] On July 19, 2023, Andrzej Bargiel made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski ...
Michael Graeme Groom OAM (born 1959) is an Australian [1] mountaineer. [2] In 1995, Groom became the fourth person ever to reach the summits of the five highest peaks in the world (Makalu, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, K2 and Everest) without using bottled oxygen.
The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet on 11 May 2017. [15] [16] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support. [16] [17]
In the region from sea level to around 3,000 m (10,000 ft), known as the physiological-efficient zone, oxygen levels are usually high enough for humans to function without supplemental oxygen and altitude decompression sickness is rare. The physiological-deficient zone extends from 3,600 m (12,000 ft) to about 15,000 m (50,000 ft).
Mitigation may be by supplementary oxygen, pressurisation of the habitat or environmental protection suit, or a combination of both. In all cases the critical effect is the raising of oxygen partial pressure in the breathing gas. [1] Room air at altitude can be enriched with oxygen without introducing an unacceptable fire hazard.
A 2022 Outside article on heat stroke cites the highest known body temperature that a human was able to survive: “The highest body temperature measured was only 17 degrees above normal. Willie ...
The first person to climb the Seven Summits without using supplemental oxygen on Mount Everest is Reinhold Messner. [40] Miroslav Caban is the second climber to finish the project without supplemental oxygen on Everest (finished in 2005 with Carstensz). Ed Viesturs also summitted all peaks without supplemental oxygen. [41]