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A plate showing the uniform of a U.S. Army first sergeant, circa 1858, influenced by the French army. The military uniforms of the Union Army in the American Civil War were widely varied and, due to limitations on supply of wool and other materials, based on availability and cost of materials. [1]
Katcher, Philip. Volstad, Ron. (1986) American Civil War armies: Volunteer militia Osprey ISBN 978-0-85045-679-0; Spencer, John D. (2006) The American Civil War in the Indian Territory Osprey ISBN 978-1-84603-000-0; Emerson, William K. (1996) Encyclopedia of United States Army insignia and uniforms University of Oklahoma Press ISBN 978-0-8061 ...
The Official Military Atlas of the Civil War, Random House Value Publishing, (1988) ISBN 0-517-53407-X; Faust, Patricia L., Historical Times Illustrated Encyclopedia of the Civil War, HarperPerennial, (1986) ISBN 0-06-273116-5; Konstam, Angusand and Bryan, Tony Confederate Ironclad 1861-65, Osprey Publishing, (2001) pg. 1873 ISBN 1-84176-307-1
In America, the early years of the Civil War also saw increased popularity of military-influenced styles such as Zouave jackets. These new styles were worn over a waist or chemisette and a skirt with a belt at the natural waistline. Women's fashion overall was highly influenced by the reigning Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom.
In similar suit, the Dress Reform Association which was formed in 1856 called the outfit the "American costume" and focused on its health benefits rather than its political symbolism. Following the American Civil War, interest in the Bloomer costume waned almost completely until its resurgence in the 1890s. [20]
Now, we bring our friendship full circle with Sandy Powell’s Dressing the Part: Costume Design for Film. SCAD provides the perfect set for her award-winning oeuvre in her first U.S. exhibition.”