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A permanent wave, commonly called a perm or permanent (sometimes called a "curly perm" to distinguish it from a "straight perm"), [1] is a hairstyle consisting of waves or curls set into the hair. The curls may last a number of months, hence the name. Perms may be applied using thermal or chemical means.
The looser curls are then set on perm rods and a chemical solution is then added to the hair to permanently curl it. "Perming" is time and labor-intensive, and expensive to maintain. The chemicals required for the process often cause the wearer's natural hair to become brittle and dry.
Though the perm was an immediate success in London, it was not well received at a demonstration for leading hairdressers held on October 8, 1906, perhaps because Nessler's English colleagues resented his competition for their regular customers. His electric permanent wave machine was patented in London in 1909.
The thioglycolic acid in the perm solution reduces the disulfide cystine bonds in the cortex of the hair. [2] In a sense, the thioglycolate removes crosslinks. After washing, the hair is treated with a mild solution of hydrogen peroxide, which oxidizes the cysteines back to cystine. These new chemical bonds impart the structural rigidity ...
Another type of "no-lye" relaxer uses ammonium thioglycolate, which is also known as perm salt for its use in permanent waves. Perm salt is a chemical reducing agent which selectively weakens the hair's cystine bonds instead of disrupting the entire protein, but strips out the natural oils even more thoroughly than the alkali hydroxide products.
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