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Vertical, metal furring is applied to the wall to create a channel and receive the siding material. In construction, furring (furring strips) are strips of wood or other material applied to a structure to level or raise the surface, to prevent dampness, to make space for insulation, to level and resurface ceilings or walls, [1] or to increase the beam of a wooden ship.
Furring strips are applied to the sheathing to create a vented air space between the radiant barrier and the siding, and vents are used at the top and bottom to allow convective heat to rise naturally to the attic. If brick is being used on the exterior, then a vented air space may already be present, and furring strips are not necessary.
Modern US Navy RR-144 (top) and RR-129 (bottom) chaff countermeasures and containers. Note how the strips of the RR-129 chaff (bottom) are of different widths, while those of the RR-144 (top) are all the same width. The RR-144 is designed to prevent interference with civil ATC radar systems.
Shingles and shakes may be tapered, straight, split, or sawn, and any combination of these except straight-tapered. Different species and quality of wood are used, as are different lengths and installation methods. Shakes and shingles may also be treated with wood preservatives and fire retardants before or after installation.
Self-furring lath is an expanded metal lath which is dimpled to hold itself off from a solid surface; Wire lath is made from welded or woven wires and is similar to hardware cloth; Paper backed wire lath is wire lath with building paper attached; Strip laths is metal lath that is several inches wide and is often used to reinforce joints and on ...
The layers are created by shredding the wood into strips, which are sifted and then oriented on a belt or wire-mesh caul (a heated, ventilated support) and coated with the resin. [5] The layers thus built up are transferred to a forming line and cross-oriented so that strips on the external layers are aligned to the panel's strength axis, while ...
Three of the processes are performed in one step, using oil (oil-heat treatment), nitrogen (Reti wood) and steam (Le-Bois Perdure). [1] The Thermo wood process consists of drying, heat treatment and finally cooling/conditioning, and takes up to 72 hours. [4]
Amakan needs to be treated before installation. They are soaked in seawater, dried, and then usually (but not always) varnished. They are usually affixed to a wooden framework, then battened with bamboo or coco lumber. [5] Amakan is associated with lower income rural housing because it is inexpensive and easy to replace.