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The earliest type of self-belay device used was the ubiquitous prusik knotted sling used by climbers. The method requires the solo climber to feed out an estimated length of belay rope so that they can reach their next stance and repeat the process as the rope is difficult to feed through the prusik knot while climbing.
In addition to being a useful rope-grab for rope-rescue applications, Prusiks are popular for: A Prusik (left) and autoblock (right). Both are used as rappel backups. Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Below The Device: A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the ...
When a belayer needs to transfer the load from their harness to the anchor to escape the system: a rope grab (mechanical or friction knot/Prusik) is placed on the load line towards the load, rope is terminated on the rope grab (or the tails of accessory cord are used when using a cordelette with a Prusik as a rope grab) and runs back to the ...
Self-locking devices (SLDs), also called progress capture devices (PCDs), are the terms given to the broader class of rope devices that allow the climbing rope to move more freely in one direction but will lock quickly if the rope tries to move in the opposite direction. Their basic action means that several can also be used as emergency ...
Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i.e. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect ...
Self-belay devices are designed to allow solo climbing where the climber wears the belay device, or secures it to a fixed object on the ground. These devices automatically lock without any intervention when the rope passing through reaches a sufficient velocity (during a fall), but allow rope to move relatively freely whilst climbing.