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  2. Crest and trough - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_and_trough

    A crest is a point on a surface wave where the displacement of the medium is at a maximum. A trough is the opposite of a crest, so the minimum or lowest point of the wave. When the crests and troughs of two sine waves of equal amplitude and frequency intersect or collide, while being in phase with each other, the result is called constructive ...

  3. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.

  4. Ripple marks - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_marks

    Crest and trough Crest The point on a wave with the maximum value or height. It is the location at the peak of the wave cycle as shown in picture to the right. Trough The opposite of a crest, so the minimum value or height in a wave. It is the location at the very lowest point of a wave cycle also shown in picture to right. Lee

  5. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Wave height (from trough to crest) Wave length (from crest to crest) Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point) Wave propagation direction; Wave length is a function of period, and of water depth for depths less than approximately half the wave length, where the wave motion is affected by friction ...

  6. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    Some of the important wave processes are refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking, wave–current interaction, friction, wave growth due to the wind, and wave shoaling. In the absence of the other effects, wave shoaling is the change of wave height that occurs solely due to changes in mean water depth – without alterations in wave ...

  7. Wave overtopping - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_overtopping

    Wave overtopping is the time-averaged amount of water that is discharged (in liters per second) per structure length (in meters) by waves over a structure such as a breakwater, revetment or dike which has a crest height above still water level. When waves break over a dike, it causes water to flow onto the land behind it.

  8. 'Rogue' or 'sneaker?' What caused the giant wave in the ... - AOL

    www.aol.com/weather/rogue-sneaker-caused-giant...

    The wave caused significant damage to Dyess Army Field and Freeflight International Airport. Kwajalein Atoll -- colloquially referred to as "Kwaj" by residents -- is a ring of islands in the ...

  9. Trochoidal wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trochoidal_wave

    The wave height – difference between the crest and trough elevation – is denoted as , the wavelength as and the phase speed as . In fluid dynamics, a trochoidal wave or Gerstner wave is an exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves.