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The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patterns like palanquins, elephants and lotuses which are embroidered onto Ilkal saris. These saris are usually 9 yards in length and the pallu of the Ilkal sari (the part worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers. [2] This pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns. [3]
Kasuti work involves embroidering very intricate patterns like gopura, chariot, palanquin, lamps and conch shells. Locally available materials are used for Kasuti. The work is laborious and involves counting of each thread on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that both sides of the cloth look alike. [4]
A variety of weaving techniques were employed in ancient India, many of which survive to the present day. Silk and cotton were woven into various designs and motifs, each region developing its distinct style and technique. Famous among these weaving styles were the Jamdani, Kasika vastra of Varanasi, butidar, and the Ilkal saree.
The Ilkal pure silk saree costs anywhere between Rs.4000 and 12000, whereas an Ilkal chamka (alternate thread of cotton and silk) saree costs somewhere between 600 and 2000. Most of the handloom weaving culture is replaced by the powerloom weaving styles and the industry is gradually dwindling because of competitions, lack of creative skills ...
Kasavu is a technique used in handlooms of Kerala, with very fine threads of gold or silver used in weave to make border lines and designs on silk and cotton fabrics. This technique later spread to most of India and the Kasav technique was developed for many other fabrics across India.
The colour for the blouse of the mundum neriyatum for this occasion is determined by the age and marital status of the woman. Young unmarried girls wear green coloured blouse, while married middle aged mothers wear red blouses. The kasavu or the golden border is either pure golden layer, copper coated or artificial.