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Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a surge of experimentation and regional variety, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing giornea of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jeweled, and feathered.
A Spanish style of the later 15th century was still worn in this period: the hair was puffed over the ears before being drawn back at chin level into a braid or wrapped twist at the nape. First-time brides wore their hair loose, in token of virginity, and a wreath or chaplet of orange blossoms was traditional.
Charles V, king of Spain, Naples, and Sicily and Holy Roman Emperor, handed over the kingdom of Spain to his son Philip II and the Empire to his brother Ferdinand I in 1558, ending the domination of western Europe by a single court, but the Spanish taste for sombre richness of dress would dominate fashion for the remainder of the century.
The houppelande appeared around 1360 and was to remain fashionable well into the next century. [1] It had its origins in the herigaut , a similar 13th-century garment with hanging sleeves. [ 2 ] The edges of the houppelande were often dagged , or cut into decorative patterns such as scallops, "embattled" tabs or even leaf shapes.
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The chaperon was especially fashionable in mid-15th century Burgundy, before gradually falling out of fashion in the late-15th century and returning to its utilitarian status. It is the most commonly worn male headgear in Early Netherlandish painting , but its complicated construction is often misunderstood.
It is difficult to pinpoint the exact country or region where the escoffion first originated, because the style as it is now known developed in a number of stages over almost a century. In the 15th century, there was an upsurge of interest in large, sometimes extravagant headwear, which emerged into popular court fashion across Europe.
The headdress was a throwback to a larger rounded headdress from the 15th century in Italy that covered the hair of the wearer. [3] Then the hairline was often plucked. Though mostly known as a woman's headdress, there is evidence that men also wore a form of the balzo.