Search results
Results From The WOW.Com Content Network
Framing grade lumber is usually straighter and stronger, having less flaws and is used for rafters and joists where both compression and tension loads are experienced. – mfarver Commented Apr 25, 2020 at 18:17
Lumber - Comes most commonly in 2 inch (2x4,6,8,10,12,16) and 4 inch (4x4,4x6) varieties. Drywall/Plasterboard - Various 4 foot varieties (4x8,10,12) and sometimes 5 foot. Walls are typically framed with studs 16 inches on center, rafters and joists usually the same, but sometimes 24 inches on center. Ceilings are usually 8 feet high, or 10 ...
This grade of lumber is often used for blocking, temporary braces, etc. However, the lowest grade of “framing lumber” (2x width, studs, joists, etc.) ALLOWED BY CODE is “No. 3. However, “Standard & Better” or “No. 2 & Better” is the most common AND is often identified as “Construction” grade, when it’s stresses graded.
Yes, let it dry. Working with wet treated wood is a very bad idea unless you like shrinkage, cracks, gaps, squeaks, etc. Let your framing and decking dry out first. Here in Oregon that means buy the wood and store it in a DRY place. Building with wet wood only causes issue later.
You can find “straight grain” lumber, but most people don’t know how to order it and most “yards” (Home Depot, etc.) won’t order a small amount (half units, etc.). Lumber is divided into three “Grades”: boards, dimensional, and timber. Further, dimensional and timbers are graded into “light framing”, decking, beams, timbers ...
Powder Actuated Hammer - a tool which fires a .22 caliber shell loaded with a nail. Tapcon Screws - Pre-drill base plate and concrete and then secure to the floor with Tapcon screwes. This will require a hefty hammer-drill. A cordless may drain too quickly depending on how much framing needs to be secured to the floor.
Yes you can, but there are things you need to keep in mind. Pressure treated lumber requires hot dipped galvanized nails to fasten it in place. The treatment will rust regular nails to the point over time, they are worthless. So that being said, anything else you fasten to that material needs to be hot dipped galvanized or at least rated for ...
Mold is not the concern. Everybody thinks it is. It will dry out and move on. Stachybotrys and Chametomium are black molds that love wet organic materials. They grow inside of homes feeding on wet drywall that can make people very sick. This mold is dangerous to health. Mold is everywhere.
I've been involved directly and indirectly with home construction since the 1980s. Here in Minnesota, bottom plates, window bucks, sill plates, and anything else in direct contact with concrete (or even separated by foam "sill seal") have been pressure-treated by code and convention for decades.
In general, the codes require fasteners to be of hot-dipped, zinc-coated galvanized steel in accordance with ASTM A153, type 304 or 316 stainless steel, silicon bronze or copper. Improve this answer. edited. To spoil the linked article: they have to be hot-dipped galvanized. Electroplated-galvanized nails will corrode in pressure-treated wood.