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For a depth of four kilometres, the wave speed, , is about 200 metres per second, but for the first baroclinic mode in the ocean, a typical phase speed would be about 2.8 m/s, causing an equatorial Kelvin wave to take 2 months to cross the Pacific Ocean between New Guinea and South America; for higher ocean and atmospheric modes, the phase ...
A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.
Non-linear kinematic wave for debris flow can be written as follows with complex non-linear coefficients: + =, where is the debris flow height, is the time, is the downstream channel position, is the pressure gradient and the depth dependent nonlinear variable wave speed, and is a flow height and pressure gradient dependent variable diffusion term.
Miles theory predicts growth of waves for all wind speeds, observations show however that there exists a minimum wind speed of 0.23 m/s [7] before growth occurs. [ 8 ] The atmospheric energy input from the wind to the waves is represented by S i n {\displaystyle S_{in}} .
The wind waves interact with both the air and water flows above and below the waves. Therefore, the characteristics of wind waves are determined by the coupling processes between the boundary layers of both the atmosphere and ocean. Wind waves also play an important role themselves in the interaction processes between the ocean and the atmosphere.
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Fetch length, along with the wind speed (wind strength), and duration, determines the size of waves produced. If the wind direction is constant, the longer the fetch and the greater the wind speed, the more wind energy is transferred to the water surface and the larger the resulting sea state will be. [4]
A wave model requires as initial conditions information describing the state of the sea. An analysis of the sea or ocean can be created through data assimilation, where observations such as buoy or satellite altimeter measurements are combined with a background guess from a previous forecast or climatology to create the best estimate of the ongoing conditions.