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Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
At a basic level, it is typically calculated in metres using the formula: [1] UKC = Charted Depth − Draft-/+ Height of Tide. Ship masters and deck officers can obtain the depth of water from Electronic navigational charts. [5] More dynamic or advanced calculations include safety margins for manoeuvring effects and squat. [7]
Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
Hull speed or displacement speed is the speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length of the vessel. As boat speed increases from rest, the wavelength of the bow wave increases, and usually its crest-to-trough dimension (height) increases as well. When hull speed is exceeded, a vessel in displacement mode ...
Position of a point in space, not necessarily a point on the wave profile or any line of propagation d, r: m [L] Wave profile displacement Along propagation direction, distance travelled (path length) by one wave from the source point r 0 to any point in space d (for longitudinal or transverse waves) L, d, r
For an incident wave traveling from one medium (where the wave speed is c 1) to another medium (where the wave speed is c 2), one part of the wave will transmit into the second medium, while another part reflects back into the other direction and stays in the first medium. The amplitude of the transmitted wave and the reflected wave can be ...
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In this formula: H s = Significant wave height at the toe of the construction Δ = relative density of the stone (= (ρ s-ρ w)/ρ w) where ρ s is the density of the stone and ρ w is the density of the water d n50 = nominal stone diameter α = breakwater slope P = notional permeability S = Damage number N = number of waves in the storm