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  2. Cnoidal wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave

    Cnoidal wave descriptions, through a renormalisation, are also well suited to waves on deep water, even infinite water depth; as found by Clamond. [13] [14] A description of the interactions of cnoidal waves in shallow water, as found in real seas, has been provided by Osborne in 1994. [15]

  3. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    In shallow water, the group velocity is equal to the shallow-water phase velocity. This is because shallow water waves are not dispersive. In deep water, the group velocity is equal to half the phase velocity: {{math|c g = ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ c p. [7] The group velocity also turns out to be the energy transport velocity.

  4. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp ...

  5. Shallow water drilling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_drilling

    Shallow water drilling is the process of oil and gas exploration and production in less than 150 meters (500 feet) of water. [1] Shallow water drilling differs from deepwater drilling in several key aspects. Shallow water rigs have legs that reach the bottom of the sea floor and have blowout preventers (BOPs) above the surface of the water that ...

  6. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Boussinesq approximation (water waves) – nonlinear theory for waves in shallow water. Capillary wave – surface waves under the action of surface tension; Cnoidal wave – nonlinear periodic waves in shallow water, solutions of the Korteweg–de Vries equation; Mild-slope equation – refraction and diffraction of surface waves over varying ...

  7. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations, in its non-linear form, is an obvious candidate for modelling turbulence in the atmosphere and oceans, i.e. geophysical turbulence. An advantage of this, over Quasi-geostrophic equations , is that it allows solutions like gravity waves , while also conserving energy and potential vorticity .