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  2. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.

  3. Douglas sea scale - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douglas_sea_scale

    The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...

  4. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    NOAA ship Delaware II in foul weather on Georges Bank. Sea State 5 and 8 range. In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum ...

  5. List of rogue waves - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_rogue_waves

    The height of the wave was reported to be abnormally high with respect to the sea state at the time of the incident. [58] In March 2014, a massive wave struck Roi-Namur in Kwajalein Atoll in the Marshall Islands on an otherwise calm, sunny day, penetrating well inland, flooding parts of the island and swamping coastal roads. [59]

  6. Nautical chart - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nautical_chart

    A 1976 United States NOAA chart of part of Puerto Rico A nautical chart of the Warnemünde harbor shown on OpenSeaMap. A nautical chart or hydrographic chart is a graphic representation of a sea region or water body and adjacent coasts or banks.

  7. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Oceanic_and...

    The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA / ˈ n oʊ. ə / NOH-ə) is an American scientific and regulatory agency charged with forecasting weather, monitoring oceanic and atmospheric conditions, charting the seas, conducting deep-sea exploration, and managing fishing and protection of marine mammals and endangered species in the US exclusive economic zone.

  8. Wind wave model - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model

    In fluid dynamics, wind wave modeling describes the effort to depict the sea state and predict the evolution of the energy of wind waves using numerical techniques.These simulations consider atmospheric wind forcing, nonlinear wave interactions, and frictional dissipation, and they output statistics describing wave heights, periods, and propagation directions for regional seas or global oceans.

  9. Bathymetric chart - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathymetric_chart

    Bathymetric map of Kamaʻehuakanaloa Seamount (formerly Loihi) with isobaths. A bathymetric chart is a type of isarithmic map that depicts the submerged bathymetry and physiographic features of ocean and sea bottoms. [1]