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  2. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the significant wave height. [2] The phases of an ocean surface wave: 1.

  3. Wind wave model - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model

    A wave model requires as initial conditions information describing the state of the sea. An analysis of the sea or ocean can be created through data assimilation, where observations such as buoy or satellite altimeter measurements are combined with a background guess from a previous forecast or climatology to create the best estimate of the ongoing conditions.

  4. Surf forecasting - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_forecasting

    Swell height is the height of the swell in deep water. [1] Swell direction is the direction from which the swell is coming. It is measured in degrees (as on a compass), and often referred to in general directions, such as a NNW or SW swell. [1] Swell period is an important factor in surf forecasting. It is a measurement of time between ...

  5. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.

  6. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.

  7. Wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_height

    Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.

  8. Iribarren number - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iribarren_number

    The parameter used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes. [4] [5] [6] Iribarren Number (ξ 0) as a function of wave height with constant beach steepness of 7.5 degrees. Iribarren's work was further developed by Jurjen Battjes in 1974, who named the parameter after ...

  9. Wind-wave dissipation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind-wave_dissipation

    Wind-wave dissipation or "swell dissipation" is process in which a wave generated via a weather system loses its mechanical energy transferred from the atmosphere via wind. Wind waves, as their name suggests, are generated by wind transferring energy from the atmosphere to the ocean's surface, capillary gravity waves play an essential role in ...