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The Kashmir shawl, the predecessor of the contemporary cashmere shawl, is a type of shawl identified by its distinctive Kashmiri weave and for being made of fine shahtoosh or pashmina wool. Contemporary variants include the pashmina and shahtoosh shawls (often mononymously referred to simply as the pashmina and shahtoosh ).
This exquisite shawl was once coveted by Mughal Kings, Sikh Maharajas and British Aristocrats. The Ain-i-Akbari records that Emperor Akbar was an avid collector of Kani shawls. While the name 'Kani' comes from the area where this particular artisans come from, Kanihama, the word 'Kani' - in Kashmiri - also means a small wooden oblong spool.
In 1568, Kashmir was conquered by Babur's grandson Akbar. [13] In Akbar's time, a pair of pashmina shawls was an expected part of khil'at ceremonies. [13] From the 16th to the early 20th centuries, the Safavid, Zand, and Qajar emperors of Iran also wore pashmina and gifted Kashmir shawls as khilat within their political and religious practices ...
A Jamawar shawl from the Mughal era. Jamawar, or gown piece, [1] is a special type of shawl made in Kashmir. [2] "Jama" means robe and "war/var" is yard. [3] The best quality of Jamawar is built with Pashmina. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk or polyester.
Kashmir was a pivotal point in the history of the shawl, serving as the birthplace of one of the most coveted garments in the world. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls. The Kanikar, for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of nature.
François Bernier, witnessing the shawl industry first hand, emphasizes this point, and admits thatGreat pains, he says, have been taken to manufacture shawls similar to those of Kashmir, in Patna, Agra, and Lahore but notwithstanding every possible care, they never have the texture and softness of the Kashmir article, whose unrivalled ...