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A crest is a point on a surface wave where the displacement of the medium is at a maximum. A trough is the opposite of a crest, so the minimum or lowest point of the wave. When the crests and troughs of two sine waves of equal amplitude and frequency intersect or collide, while being in phase with each other, the result is called constructive ...
The outcome is the rapid movement of the base of the wave up the swash slope and the disappearance of the wave crest. The front face and crest of the wave remain relatively smooth with little foam or bubbles, resulting in a very narrow surf zone, or no breaking waves at all. The short, sharp burst of wave energy means that the swash/backwash ...
Humpback whale breach sequence. A breach or a lunge is a leap out of the water, also known as cresting. The distinction between the two is fairly arbitrary: cetacean researcher Hal Whitehead defines a breach as any leap in which at least 40% of the animal's body clears the water, and a lunge as a leap with less than 40% clearance. [2]
A crista (/ ˈ k r ɪ s t ə /; pl.: cristae) is a fold in the inner membrane of a mitochondrion.The name is from the Latin for crest or plume, and it gives the inner membrane its characteristic wrinkled shape, providing a large amount of surface area for chemical reactions to occur on.
Rogue waves do not appear to have a single distinct cause but occur where physical factors such as high winds and strong currents cause waves to merge to create a single large wave. [1] Recent research suggests sea state crest-trough correlation leading to linear superposition may be a dominant factor in predicting the frequency of rogue waves. [3]
Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.
The wave height – difference between the crest and trough elevation – is denoted as , the wavelength as and the phase speed as . In fluid dynamics, a trochoidal wave or Gerstner wave is an exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves.
Ballantine scale – Marine biology measurement scale; Boussinesq approximation (water waves) – Approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves; Mild-slope equation – Physics phenomenon and formula; Shallow water equations – Set of partial differential equations that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid