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The kesa is worn over a Chinese-style long robe, called jikitotsu (直裰) which was also developed in China, [14] [15] and had a belt or sash tied at the waist. [13] Zen Buddhist monks wear a form of formal dress which is composed of two kimono, covered by the jikitotsu; and the kesa is finally worn on top of the jikitotsu. [15]
Another suggests that the rakusu developed as Zen monks became involved in manual labor because a full robe would have been too unwieldy. Additionally, some Japanese scholars believe it was developed in Japan during the Edo or Tokugawa Era, as the result of regulations specifying the size and fabric type of monks clothing. [2]
Modern-day Buddhist monks and laity refer to the long Buddhist robe as haiqing (Chinese: 海青). [23] The wearing of these long robes by Buddhist monks is a legacy of the Tang and Song period. [23] In ancient times, the haiqing was adopted by the Chan temples. [8] The haiqing originated from the hanfu-style worn in the Han and Tang dynasties. [14]
[web 3] In this ceremony, the novice receives his outfit ("inner and outer robes, belts, o-kesa, rakusu, kechimyaku (transmission chart) and eating bowls" [web 3]) and takes the precepts. One is then an Unsui, a training monk. This gives the rank of jōza, except for children under ten years old, who are called sami. [web 3]
Warrior monks, like most other Buddhist monks of related sects, wore a series of kimono-like robes in layers, one over the other, usually white underneath, and tan or saffron yellow on top; this style has changed very little since the introduction of Buddhism to Japan in the 7th century.
Between 148 and 170 CE, the Parthian monk An Shigao came to China and translated a work which describes the color of monastic robes utilized in five major Indian Buddhist sects, called Dà Bǐqiū Sānqiān Wēiyí (Ch. 大比丘三千威儀). [3]