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Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. [ 1 ] It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric.
Cutwork is related to drawn thread work. In drawn thread work, typically only the warp or weft threads are withdrawn (cut and removed), and the remaining threads in the resulting hole are bound in various ways. In other types of cutwork, both warp and weft threads may be drawn. Cutwork is considered the precursor of lace. [2]
Drawn thread work or dragværk, another whitework technique, dates from the second half of the 18th century. Employing the warp and weft approach, white thread is drawn across the width of the white linen before figures such as animals are sewn in. The embroidery follows the length and intersections of the fabric. [8]
Dresden work on white linen; Engageantes Richelieu cutwork embroidery, a form of whitework. Different styles of whitework emanated from different areas and at a variety of times in history. There are examples of pulled thread work from the 1200s. Prior to the 1500s, embroidered clothing and other textiles were limited to the church and to royalty.
In drawn thread work and cutwork, the foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with thread in the same color as the foundation fabric. When created with white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively referred to as whitework. [21]
Example of modern Hardanger embroidery work Hardanger embroidery sample, from a 1907 needlework magazine. Hardanger embroidery or "Hardangersøm" is a form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave linen or cloth, using counted thread and drawn thread work techniques. It is sometimes called whitework embroidery.
17th century Spanish Sol lace was a form of drawn thread work with circular patterns built up on a skeleton of woven threads. It is believed that this skill was transported to South America with European colonization. The name Sol lace was retained in Bolivia, Brazil, and Peru. [4]
Hemstitch or hem-stitch is a decorative drawn thread work or openwork hand-sewing technique for embellishing the hem of clothing or household linens. Unlike an ordinary hem, hemstitching can employ embroidery thread in a contrasting color so as to be noticeable.