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Bottled oxygen can help mountaineers survive in the death zone. Mountaineers use supplemental oxygen in the death zone to reduce deleterious effects. An open-circuit oxygen apparatus was first tested on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions; the bottled oxygen taken in 1921 was not used (see George Finch and Noel Odell).
Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left). The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks.
Until the ascent of Mount Everest by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978, this was the highest peak climbed without supplemental oxygen. [11] Viewing Cho Oyu via Tingri. Cho Oyu is considered the easiest eight-thousander, [nb 1] with the lowest death-summit ratio (1 ⁄ 25 th of Annapurna's).
A "World's First" is the highest category of any Guinness World Record, meaning the ownership of the title never expires. [28] As of 2021, Messner is the second highest record holder of "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic oceanic rower Fiann Paul, who has 13). Messner's world firsts are: First ascent of Manaslu without supplementary oxygen
In May 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to successfully summit the 8,516-metre (27,940-foot) high Mount Lhotse – the world’s 4th highest mountain - without using supplementary oxygen. [8] In July 2019, Sirbaz climbed the summit of the 8,047-metre (26,401 ft) Broad Peak mountain in Pakistan, without using supplementary oxygen. [9]
Chimborazo is only the 39 th tallest mountain in the Andes, when measured from sea level, but there was a brief time in the 19 th century when it was thought to be the world’s highest peak.
The first person to climb the Seven Summits without using supplemental oxygen on Mount Everest is Reinhold Messner. [40] Miroslav Caban is the second climber to finish the project without supplemental oxygen on Everest (finished in 2005 with Carstensz). Ed Viesturs also summitted all peaks without supplemental oxygen. [41]
Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev (Russian: Анато́лий Никола́евич Букре́ев; January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was a Soviet-born Kazakh mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks—those above 8,000 m (26,247 ft)—without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ...