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Depending on the exact yarn weight and the gauge of the knitter or crocheter and how tight or loose the yarn is held, the gauge listed below can vary.The type of yarn can also affect the look of the item, so if it’s thicker yarn the item will look bulkier compared to yarn that is thinner. For this reason it is important to check the gauge of ...
10 or 12 ply 120-200 9-12 wpi 4.5 - 5.5 5.5 - 6.5 Worsted, Afghan, Fisherman, 4-ply (obsolete American) 5 or Bulky Chunky, Double Double Knit (rare) 12 or 16 ply 100-130 6-8 wpi 5.5 - 8 6.5 - 9 Craft, Rug 6 or Super Bulky Super Chunky Less than 100 5-6 wpi >8 >9 Roving 7 or Jumbo Less than 100 n/a 12.75 mm and larger 15 mm and larger Roving
Each weight can be described by a number and name: Size 0 yarn is called Lace, size 1 is Super Fine, size 2 is Fine, size 3 is Light, size 4 is Medium, size 5 is Bulky, size 6 is Super Bulky, and size 7 is Jumbo. [32] Each weight also has several commonly used but unregulated terms associated with it.
The term worsted, in relation to textile yarn weight, is defined as the number of hanks of yarn, each with a length of 560 yards, that weigh one pound. Super numbers represent the fineness of the worsted wool fiber used in the fabric. The higher the number, such as Super 100s, 120s, or 150s, the finer the wool thread is.
Given the linear density and weight the yarn length can be calculated; for example: l/m = 1693 × l m /Nec × m/kg, where l/m is the yarn length in metres, l m /Nec is the English cotton count and m/kg is the yarn weight in kilograms. The following length units are defined. Bundle: usually 10 lb (4.5 kg)
Yarn weight is a factor; thicker yarns with less loft overall produce larger stitches than thinner yarns (reducing the number of stitches per width and length). Larger knitting needles also produce larger stitches, giving fewer stitches and rows per inch. Changing needle size is the best way to control one's own gauge for a given pattern and yarn.
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