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like chemical. Easy to use. You wipe it on bare metal/rust and let it work it's magic. The directions are on the bottle. Neutralize with water after using a wire brush on a drill to remove all traces of rust from pits. Ready for paint after neutralizing. Leaves a phosphoric coating on metal that's perfect to prime over.
I have had 3 cars soda blasted. It will remove surface rust, the areas where there were rust you need to go over with metal prep or you could get some rust returning over time. Anything heavier will need to be media or sand blasted. Cleanup of Soda is very simple. If it hasn't got wet you can just blow it out with air.
a couple of rinses and some time, and then do the metal prep as per above. ONLY USE THIS STUFF OUTDOORS - it will eat up all bare metal in your garage from the vapors alone! I would not use it if it wont get off all the rust. muriatic will stay in any rust left and wreck the paint job. also need rubber gloves for this stuff. only do small areas.
The Metal Ready gives the metal a tooth that helps adhesion for the por-15. Even a little of the yellow reidue is ok on the por-15 side of the panel. I leave the gray coating on the paint side of the panel until I'm ready to prime. Just before applying epoxy primer to the paint side, I jitterbug all of the gray coating off down to shiney metal.
In the process of restoring a V/W that I picked up in the bay area, it had been over there in the Vallejo area for about 38 years most of the engine sheet metal was heavy with rust, went the vinegar route and like the man says leave it alone, I let the tin soak for over a week and it came out with little or no rust and most of the paint came ...
This will get in any remaining minor rust and converts it to something. Also leaves a coating that will protect it for a few days. Can wipe it off after a few minutes, wash with lacquer thinner, then the oil/grease remover then prime. If left to dry, hit it with 220 /320, clean then epoxy prime. Just need to remove/neutralize if wet, or dry in ...
The headlight ring cleaned up perfectly. A light wipedown with a towel and a rinse gave me this shine. The spring loaded mechanism on the bottom is free and works well now and the three retaining springs on the back are fine as well. This could soak some more to completely remove the remaining rust from the hardware. The cans did really well.
Had a friend of mine experiment with vinegar and some small misc hardware, he left it in the jar and forgot about it. Months later when he found the jar, the hardware was gone. Apparently it ate up the bolts/screws. Note to self, don't leave parts in vinegar for too long of time, just long enough to remove the rust.
note: if you find it necessary to use a metal conditioner to remove rust, etc., be sure to thoroughly clean and nutralize the treated area following the conditioner manufacturers recommendations, using our kc20 post sanding cleaner with a maroon scuff pad to insure all acid residue has been removed before priming.
I would take a small toothbrush like wire brush and knock the heavier rust off. Remove the gasket. Then put it in a five gallon plastic bucket and mix the citric acid with some water. The stronger the solution the better as it won't hurt the metal but will remove the rust. Leave it for at least a week or hopefully more.