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The American Death Triangle, also known as the "American Triangle", [1] "Triangle Anchor" [2] or simply the "Death Triangle", is a dangerous type of rock and ice climbing anchor infamous for both magnifying load forces on fixed anchors and lack of redundancy in attachment to the anchor.
A load-sharing (or load-distributing) anchor is a system consisting of two or more individual anchors which join together at a main anchor point to form an anchoring system. This configuration is a way to introduce redundancy and increase strength, typically for a belay anchor.
An ice screw. Some modern screws like this one now have a handle to assist entry and removal, whereas early models did not. An ice screw is a threaded tubular screw used as a running belay or anchor by climbers on steep ice surface such as steep waterfall ice or alpine ice during ice climbing or crevasse rescue, to hold the climber in the event of a fall, and at belays as anchor points.
A snow anchor is used both for climbing and for securing tents and other camping gear, that is designed for use in sand and snow. A snow fluke is a bent square or rectangle, approximately 8 by 10 inches (20 by 25 cm), and is made of aluminum or other metal, with a cable attached at two points on the upper surface. [1]
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Some climbers will use a single full-thickness climbing rope with a diameter of approximately 9 to 11 mm (0.35 to 0.43 in), and some will use double ropes, or "half-ropes", to reduce rope drag (e.g. one rope is clipped into any given anchor or protection point), which have a reduced thickness of approximately 8 to 9 mm (0.31 to 0.35 in) to ...