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  2. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.

  3. Underwater acoustics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Underwater_acoustics

    Output of a computer model of underwater acoustic propagation in a simplified ocean environment. A seafloor map produced by multibeam sonar. Underwater acoustics (also known as hydroacoustics) is the study of the propagation of sound in water and the interaction of the mechanical waves that constitute sound with the water, its contents and its boundaries.

  4. Boussinesq approximation (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boussinesq_approximation...

    The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling and weak non-linearity. In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves.

  5. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    The water experiences five splashes which generate surface gravity waves that propagate away from the splash locations and reflect off the bathtub walls. The shallow-water equations ( SWE ) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a ...

  6. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    In water waves, the most used energy measure is the mean wave energy density per unit horizontal area. ... Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series ...

  7. Group velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_velocity

    For surface gravity waves, the water particle velocities are much smaller than the phase velocity, in most cases. Propagation of a wave packet demonstrating a phase velocity greater than the group velocity. This shows a wave with the group velocity and phase velocity going in different directions. [1]

  8. Green's law - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green's_law

    Propagation of shoaling long waves, showing the variation of wavelength and wave height with decreasing water depth.. In fluid dynamics, Green's law, named for 19th-century British mathematician George Green, is a conservation law describing the evolution of non-breaking, surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water of gradually varying depth and width.

  9. Dispersion relation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_relation

    In addition to the geometry-dependent and material-dependent dispersion relations, the overarching Kramers–Kronig relations describe the frequency-dependence of wave propagation and attenuation. Dispersion may be caused either by geometric boundary conditions (waveguides, shallow water) or by interaction of the waves with the transmitting medium.