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  2. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.

  3. Underwater acoustics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Underwater_acoustics

    Output of a computer model of underwater acoustic propagation in a simplified ocean environment. A seafloor map produced by multibeam sonar. Underwater acoustics (also known as hydroacoustics) is the study of the propagation of sound in water and the interaction of the mechanical waves that constitute sound with the water, its contents and its boundaries.

  4. Boussinesq approximation (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boussinesq_approximation...

    The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling and weak non-linearity. In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves.

  5. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...

  6. Group velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_velocity

    For surface gravity waves, the water particle velocities are much smaller than the phase velocity, in most cases. Propagation of a wave packet demonstrating a phase velocity greater than the group velocity. This shows a wave with the group velocity and phase velocity going in different directions. [1]

  7. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    In water waves, the most used energy measure is the mean wave energy density per unit horizontal area. ... Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series ...

  8. Wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave

    Standing waves commonly arise when a boundary blocks further propagation of the wave, thus causing wave reflection, and therefore introducing a counter-propagating wave. For example, when a violin string is displaced, transverse waves propagate out to where the string is held in place at the bridge and the nut , where the waves are reflected back.

  9. Mild-slope equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mild-slope_equation

    In fluid dynamics, the mild-slope equation describes the combined effects of diffraction and refraction for water waves propagating over bathymetry and due to lateral boundaries—like breakwaters and coastlines. It is an approximate model, deriving its name from being originally developed for wave propagation over mild slopes of the sea floor.