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Wave-cut platform at Southerndown, South Wales, UK. A wave-cut platform, shore platform, coastal bench, or wave-cut cliff is the narrow flat area often found at the base of a sea cliff or along the shoreline of a lake, bay, or sea that was created by erosion. Wave-cut platforms are often most obvious at low tide when they become visible as huge ...
The point on a wave with the maximum value or height. It is the location at the peak of the wave cycle as shown in picture to the right. Trough The opposite of a crest, so the minimum value or height in a wave. It is the location at the very lowest point of a wave cycle also shown in picture to right. Lee The lee side has a steeper slope than ...
Bayou – Body of water in flat, low-lying areas; Beach – Area of loose particles at the edge of the sea or other body of water; Beach cusps – Shoreline formations made up of various grades of sediment in an arc pattern; Beach ridge – Wave-swept or wave-deposited ridge running parallel to a shoreline
These reflect wave energy. Under storm conditions a non-breaking standing wave pattern can form, resulting in a stationary clapotic wave which moves up and down but does not travel horizontally. [13] [14] These waves promote erosion at the toe of the wall and can cause severe damage to the seawall. [15]
Signs explaining how to escape from a rip current, posted at Mission Beach, San Diego, California As seen from above, this shows how a rip current works. Breaking waves cross a sand bar off the shore. The pushed-in water can most easily travel back out to sea through a gap in the sand bar. This flow creates a fast-moving rip current.
The standing edge wave theory, which was introduced by Guza and Inman (1975), suggests that swash is superimposed upon the motion of standing edge waves that travel alongshore. This produces a variation in swash height along the shore and consequently results in regular patterns of erosion. The cusp embayments form at the eroding points and ...