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Liquid versions of hide glue are now available; typically they have urea added to keep the glue liquid at room temperature and to extend drying time. Examples of liquid hide glue are Old Brown Glue or Titebond Liquid Hide. Hide glue does not creep. Hide glue joints are easy to repair, by just heating and adding more hide glue. [7] [8] [9]
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Dry rot. The following is a list of Wood Terms to describe conditions, as suggested by MRM5: Museum Registration Methods 5th Edition: [13] Alligatoring: Series of hairline cracks in old varnish, creating the appearance of alligator hide. Checking: Slight gapping between wood cells that creates a checkerboard-like pattern. Found where wood is ...
Reactivation of hide glues. Hide glues, often made from processed cow hides, are a protein-based adhesive commonly used by conservators as the glue is known for both its longevity and reversibility. Hide glues may be reactivated with heat, allowing for repairs to be made where glued joints have begun to loosen.
[Davidowsky; Raw Materials and Fabrication of Glue, H.C. Baird, Philadelphia, 1884] Franklin liquid hide glue is not weaker than fresh-mixed hot hide glue. It is, however, much more hygroscopic. The bond fails much faster at high humidity (80%) than hot hide glue does. It has short shelf life (under a year, despite what Franklin says).
The proteins of the glue soak into the wood and interlace with its pores. Setting of the glue occurs with cooling and drying, so the working time is very short, on the order of minutes, to stick the parts together and get full strength, unlike PVA glue which might provide 20–30 minutes. Furthermore, since the glue only works by ...