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The imperial diameter (in 16 th of an inch) of the screw head is usually twice the gauge (imperial). Use the formula below to estimate the screw head and gauge. Gauge= (Head diameter in sixteenths of an inch X 2 ) – 2. E.g. 5/16 head times two equals 10, minus two equals 8. The Gauge is 8.
4. Back in the last century when we were not sure of a screw's gauge, a reliable rule of thumb was to measure the diameter of the countersunk head in inches. Deduct from that measurement 1/16", and then count the number of 1/32" remaining. So a screw head with a diameter of 1/4" was a 6 gauge, 5/16" was an 8 gauge, 3/8" was a 10 gauge and so on.
This has nothing to do with location (countries). This is just standard nomenclature for metric screws as opposed to imperial sizes. @tnknepp: Where I live, the typical packaging doesn't say "Mn". It just says "A mm x B mm" for some values of A and B. Well, I don't know what you mean by "typical packaging", but the Mx nomenclature is pretty ...
3. There are thread gauges you can use to determine the diameter and threads per inch. For instance the "10" in 10-32 is the diameter, the "32" means it has 32 threads in a length of 1''. The larger the diameter number, the thicker the bolt. If the threaded bolt is stuck in something you can use the gauge to compare the size and that would give ...
1 Answer. Sorted by: You need to make the hole the "right" size - neither too big nor too small. You should choose the size (diameter and length) of screw based on the job you are doing. You should then choose the size of wall plug based on this. The internal diameter of the wall plug is determined by the size (s) of screw it is designed to take.
8. The Phillips screwdriver size is based on the size at the very tip. Based on diagrams of the tip from the original Phillips patent (shown in one of the links to sizes.com), I'm guessing that the relevant physical size is the cross you see when you point the screwdriver at your nose (as though it were a screw) and look at it end-on, or ...
A real simple technique I use is to hold up the drill bit and the screw. Hold the shaft of the drill bit up in front of the screw. You should only be able to see the threads of the screw (and maybe a bit of the screw). If you can't see the threads the drill bit is too big. If you can see too much of the screw, the bit is too small. I hope this ...
Device (switch) boxes are 6-32. Junction boxes like that one are 8-32. Ground screws are 10-32. Also, you could buy a ceiling hugger style fan instead of a stem mounted one, and fasten it directly to the ceiling with toggle bolts or similar fasteners, instead of just the box, since that box is most likely not rated for a fan.
While it is true that M6 has a measurement which is 6mm, it is the "nominal diameter", and not anything you can measure with a caliper. Also M-series screw threads don't use "threads per anything" - instead they standardize the thread pitch (the inverse measurement). M6 has a thread pitch of 1mm and M5 a thread pitch of 0.8.
Everywhere, sizes like M8×16 are simple, uniform and well understood. In the US, though, screw sizes are mostly sold in legacy units with complicated fractions, and an apparently separate system with hashes and numerals, e.g. #6, which nobody has been able to explain to me. (Websearching for an explanation brought me here.)