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The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.
Sections: The parts of a breaking wave that are rideable; Sectioning: A wave that does not break evenly, breaks ahead of itself [2] Set waves: A group of waves of larger size within a swell; Shoulder: The unbroken part of a breaking wave; Surf's up: A phrase used when there are waves worth surfing [2]
The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.
Surfing a break in Oahu. A surf break (also break, shore break, or big wave break [1]) is a permanent (or semi-permanent) obstruction such as a coral reef, rock, shoal, or headland that causes a wave to break, [2] forming a barreling wave or other wave that can be surfed, before it eventually collapses.
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A rip current (or just rip) is a specific type of water current that can occur near beaches where waves break. A rip is a strong, localized, and narrow current of water that moves directly away from the shore by cutting through the lines of breaking waves, like a river flowing out to sea. The force of the current in a rip is strongest and ...
“I mean, it’s hitting the pier and that’s a warning sign that it’s pretty big, closing out and breaking pretty quickly, too.” ... “Dangerously large breaking waves of 28 to 33 ft with ...
The mild summers of previous generations are in the past, with record-breaking heat waves having deadly consequences. The forecasts mean the dog days of summer will get longer, ...