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Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by deep-water phase velocity √gλ / (2 π) as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √gh valid in shallow water. Drawn lines: dispersion relation valid ...
A dispersion relation relates the wavelength or wavenumber of a wave to its frequency. Given the dispersion relation, one can calculate the frequency-dependent phase velocity and group velocity of each sinusoidal component of a wave in the medium, as a function of frequency. In addition to the geometry-dependent and material-dependent ...
Shallow-water equations, in its non-linear form, is an obvious candidate for modelling turbulence in the atmosphere and oceans, i.e. geophysical turbulence. An advantage of this, over Quasi-geostrophic equations, is that it allows solutions like gravity waves, while also conserving energy and potential vorticity.
Frequency dispersion in groups of gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green circles propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square overtakes two green circles when moving from the left to the right of the figure.
For the case of infinitesimal wave amplitude, the terminology is linear frequency dispersion. The frequency dispersion characteristics of a Boussinesq-type of equation can be used to determine the range of wave lengths, for which it is a valid approximation. The linear frequency dispersion characteristics for the above set A of equations are: [5]
Frequency dispersion in groups of gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green circles propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square overtakes two green circles when moving from the left to the right of the figure.
The wave equation is a hyperbolic partial differential equation describing waves, including traveling and standing waves; the latter can be considered as linear superpositions of waves traveling in opposite directions. This article mostly focuses on the scalar wave equation describing waves in scalars by scalar functions u = u (x, y, z, t) of a ...
Dispersion curves - graphs that show relationships between wave velocity, wavelength and frequency in dispersive systems - can be presented in various forms. The form that gives the greatest insight into the underlying physics has ω {\displaystyle \omega } (angular frequency) on the y -axis and k (wave number) on the x -axis.