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The term "gauge" is used in knitting to describe the fineness size of knitting machines. It is used in both hand knitting and machine knitting. The phrase in both instances refers to the number of stitches per inch rather than the size of the finished article of clothing. The gauge is calculated by counting the stitches (for hand knitting) or ...
A more hands-on method, there is the test swatch and the gauge swatch. Knitting a test swatch requires knitting the yarn into a small, roughly 4 in (10 cm) square textile of even stitches. [4] Comparing this with recommended needle sizes, yarn, and the knitter's own signature tension, allows for adjustments to all of these things.
A hook gauge is the most reliable way to determine the actual size of a tool. Even though most hooks and needles have metric sizing, tool dimensions vary slightly between different manufacturers. Non-metric sizing conventions also change over time. For instance, different sizing charts rate a 4.0mm hook as either a U.S. G/6 or an F/5. [2]
A raised increase, knitting into row below (k-b, k 1 b) A lifted increase, knitting into the yarn between the stitches (inc, m1) Knit front and back (kfb) Purl front and back (, pass slipped stitch over (S1, K1, PSSO) for a left-leaning decrease. Knit two together through the back loops (K2tog tbl) for a left-leaning decrease.
There are two basic forms of knitting patterns: Text patterns which use numerals and words (and usually abbreviations), and; Chart patterns which use symbols in a chart. Some patterns include the entire instructions in both forms, as some knitters prefer one or the other. Some patterns mix the forms to take advantage of the best of each.
The most important property of needles is their diameter, which ranges from below 2 to 25 mm (roughly 1 inch). The diameter affects the size of stitches, which affects the gauge/tension of the knitting and the elasticity of the fabric. Thus, a simple way to change gauge/tension is to use different needles, which is the basis of uneven knitting.