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The ancient textile printing art form is believed to have evolved about 3000 years ago in Andhra Pradesh. Kalamkari gained popularity in the south of India during the reign of Vijayanagara Empire. Kalam implies 'pen' and Kari means 'art', a name given by the Mughals when they discovered the art during their reign over the Deccan region.
King Cotton in Modern America: A Cultural, Political, and Economic History since 1945 (2010) excerpt; Riello, Giorgio. Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (2015) excerpt; Riello, Giorgio. How India Clothed the World: The World of South Asian Textiles, 1500–1850 (2013) Yafa, Stephen (2006). Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary ...
The history of textile arts is also the history of international trade. Tyrian purple dye was an important trade good in the ancient Mediterranean. The Silk Road brought Chinese silk to India, Africa, and Europe, and, conversely, Sogdian silk to China. Tastes for imported luxury fabrics led to sumptuary laws during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
The fabric had turned into peat, but was still identifiable. Many bodies at the site had been wrapped in fabric before burial. Eighty-seven pieces of fabric were found associated with 37 burials. Researchers have identified seven different weaves in the fabric. One kind of fabric had 26 strands per inch (10 strands per centimeter).
Scraps of wool fabric from the Bronze Age and Iron Age have been found in the salt mines of Hallstatt Austria. The fabric scraps were residuals of rags used in the mines. The rags, in turn were scraps from worn out garments. The Bronze age fabrics are relatively coarse in part due to the coarse wool available from the sheep at the time.
When the first colour was finished, the finished fabric was set aside to dry. If more than one colour was used, once the fabric was dry, a block with the next colour would be inked and carefully impressed over the image left by the first. The same process and the same blocks could be used for making both fabrics and wallpaper.
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Dimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabric having at least two warp threads thrown into relief to form fine cords. dobby loom A dobby loom is a loom in which each harness can be manipulated individually. This is in contrast to a treadle loom, where the harnesses are attached to a number of different treadles depending on the weave structure.