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  2. Ripple tank - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_tank

    The speed of a wave in water depends on the depth, so the ripples slow down as they pass over the glass. This causes the wavelength to decrease. If the junction between the deep and shallow water is at an angle to the wavefront, the waves will refract. In the diagram above, the waves can be seen to bend towards the normal.

  3. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations, in its non-linear form, is an obvious candidate for modelling turbulence in the atmosphere and oceans, i.e. geophysical turbulence. An advantage of this, over Quasi-geostrophic equations , is that it allows solutions like gravity waves , while also conserving energy and potential vorticity .

  4. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp ...

  5. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.

  6. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Visualization of deep and shallow water waves by relating wavelength to depth to bed. deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean surface), [9]

  7. Shallow (underwater relief) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_(underwater_relief)

    Shallow is an elevation of the bottom in the sea, river, lake, which impedes navigation. It is a type of an underwater relief where the depth of the water is low compared to that of the surrounding points. Usually formed by sand or pebble deposits, can also be of volcanic origin or the result of human or animal activities.

  8. Satellite-derived bathymetry - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite-derived_bathymetry

    The frequent revisit times of satellites and historical data archives also allow a continuous environmental monitoring of the shallow water zone. Therefore, Satellite-derived bathymetry finds uptake in applications which require to map and monitor shallow waters, which might be not accessible or cover significant geographical areas and support ...

  9. Bathymetric chart - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathymetric_chart

    The beams update many times per second (typically 0.1–50 Hz depending on water depth), allowing faster boat speed while maintaining 100% coverage of the seafloor. Attitude sensors allow for the correction of the boat's roll and pitch on the ocean surface, and a gyrocompass provides accurate heading information to correct for vessel yaw .