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The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...
In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
TOPEX/Poseidon was the first space mission that allowed scientists to map ocean topography with sufficient accuracy to study the large-scale current systems of the world's ocean. Although this image was constructed from only 10 days of TOPEX/Poseidon data (October 3 to October 12, 1992), it reveals most of the current systems that have been ...
Depths which have been measured are indicated by the numbers shown on the chart. Depths on charts published in most parts of the world use metres. Older charts, as well as those published by the United States government, may use feet or fathoms. Depth contour lines show the shape of underwater relief. Coloured areas of the sea emphasise shallow ...
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GEBCO is the only intergovernmental body with a mandate to map the whole ocean floor. At the beginning of the project, only 6 per cent of the world's ocean bottom had been surveyed to today's standards; as of June 2022, the project had recorded 23.4 per cent mapped. About 14,500,000 square kilometres (5,600,000 sq mi) of new bathymetric data ...