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  2. Kelvin wake pattern - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin_wake_pattern

    This formula implies that the group velocity of a deep water wave is half of its phase velocity, which, in turn, goes as the square root of the wavelength. Two velocity parameters of importance for the wake pattern are: v is the relative velocity of the water and the surface object that causes the wake.

  3. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    In deep water, the orbit's diameter is reduced to 4% of its free-surface value at a depth of half a wavelength. In a similar fashion, there is also a pressure oscillation underneath the free surface, with wave-induced pressure oscillations reducing with depth below the free surface – in the same way as for the orbital motion of fluid parcels.

  4. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    In shallow water, the group velocity is equal to the shallow-water phase velocity. This is because shallow water waves are not dispersive. In deep water, the group velocity is equal to half the phase velocity: {{math|c g = ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ c p. [7] The group velocity also turns out to be the energy transport velocity.

  5. Group velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_velocity

    The group velocity is positive (i.e., the envelope of the wave moves rightward), while the phase velocity is negative (i.e., the peaks and troughs move leftward). The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space.

  6. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves, experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation. More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel, and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid at a fixed

  7. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    The phase velocity c p (blue) and group velocity c g (red) as a function of water depth h for surface gravity waves of constant frequency, according to Airy wave theory. Quantities have been made dimensionless using the gravitational acceleration g and period T, with the deep-water wavelength given by L 0 = gT 2 /(2π) and the deep-water phase ...

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  9. Dispersion relation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_relation

    The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green dots propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square traverses the figure in the time it takes the green dot to traverse half. The dispersion relation for deep water waves is often written as